Kimono and Obi Costuming

Kimono, the traditional style of dress in Japan, has waned as a day-to-day fashion there, but it is a subject of much fascination in the West. These seeminly simple robes are not only textile works of art, but actuallly incorporate a subtle language of social communication. Cut, color, pattern and how the obi (belt) is wrapped can actually tell everything about a person's social standing and family background.

For non-Japanese who are interested in this mode of dress, whether for fashion or costuming, it's worth taking some time to learn about these lovely wrapped and tied garments.

Many people think kimonos are unisex, but in fact, there are details that many people often miss that are distinct to people schooled in kimono styles and culture.

You ALWAYS wear a kimono wrapped left side over right. The only time a kimono is worn with the right side wrapped on top of the left is when the deceased are dressed for burial.

• Men's kimono have square sleeve corners.
• Women's are gently curved.
• Young girls wear kimono with longer sleeves and the corners are very close to round.
• Brides wear sleeves that nearly reach the ground.

Men wear a small pouch off their obi to hold and carry small items. A carved ivory figurine called a netsuke was worn as a counterweight to balance the hanging pouch. Women sometimes use the longer sleeves to hold small items such as tissues. Valuables are tucked into the top of the kimono above the obi, in the same area as where a breast pocket would be in a suit.

The belt of a kimono is called an obi and it can be the most complicated part of the entire ensemble. With costuming, you can often just stick with the more casual and simple forms of wearing an obi. When picking an obi, you will want the colors to contrast strongly with your kimono rather than matching it.

One historical point to note: do NOT wear your obi tied in the front. This was how prostitutes tied their obis supposedly, and the reasons vary with sources. Various references say the reasons could be 1) to save time, 2) to make it so they wouldn't be lying down on a knot when they laid down and 3) it was a simple way of advertising compared to how everyone else's obis were tied.

Casual obi - the most simple form of an obi is a wide sash worn with the yukata, a casual summer form of the kimono worn in hot weather or while bathing. Wrapped around the torso twice, the casual obi can be tied with a simple bow in the back.

Pre-tied Obi - This is the modern option for kimono dressing. A ready-to-wear version of the obi comes with the belt ready to fasten and a well-formed bow that just slides into place on the waistband.